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On the retro-event in Apeldoorn I got inspired to build a small
mame cabinet when i saw Pepijn's cabinet. Pepijn did a great job.
Update [febr'06]
I got a broken Compaq IPAQ PIII 800 for free. The
harddisk was broken, and a swap of my HD from my Mame setup
didn't work. I upgraded my old board with an extra 128 Mb and I
swapped the processor.
Hardware specs: PIII Celeron 800mhz, 256MB, 8GB
HD.
Step 1 - getting the hardware [sept'05]
I searched www.marktplaats.nl,
www.speurders.nl to get a
decent 9" SVGA monitor, and PIII machine. I bought two
monitors (one spare), and a Compaq IPAQ
PIII 500mhz, 128Mb, 8GB. Ofcourse not all cables where included (I
always forget to ask for cables when i make a deal!). Bought an
old keyboard, so i can configure the pc more easily (so i don't
have to disconnect our home pc when i work on the Mame-machine).
The buttons
and joystick where ordered from www.ultimarc.com.
I bought a control-2-pc connector on ebay.
 
Step 2 - planning and starting [sept'05]
I am still waiting for the connector, I have started to
configure the PC. It's running on Windows XP Pro, and has Mame32
and GLaunch, and ofcourse a few roms. GLaunch and Mame can easily
be rotated to vertical view.
I have printed a test page
for the control layout (see above). When the connector arrives i
will first make a test-controller to see if it works. I still have to start to make a
design on paper, but i already have the dimensions of a 100%
Galaga cabinet (see below what my cabinet should look like). I
will make a 50% model.
100% model on the left, 50% model W.I.P. on the
middle and right!
Step 3 - Controller [oct'05]
First part is making the controller, so i can test it before
it is part of the cabinet. If the buttons are too far apart, I
can easily make a new board. The connector did arrive, so i could
connect everything and try it. After a few corrections to the
connections, it worked. The credit, P1, P2 and esc. button will
be placed on the cabinet front (the place of the coin door).
P1 & P2 couldn't be placed next to each
other, because when the figures on the button where rotated, I
couldn't connect the microswitch to the cables. I wonder if I
missed something, but i couldn't turn them around.
I use 7 buttons, action1-3, credit, player 1/2 and esc (which
throws you back to the menu). While pressing P1&P2 you can
change the volume with the stick.
The stick is 4 way & 8 way, but you can only
change this setting under the joystick. I have to make sure it
still can be reached when the cab is put together. There a sticks
which can be changed from the top (didn't check that properly
before i ordered the stick).
Step 4 - Monitor [oct'05]
The next part will be to take the monitor apart
and screw it to MDF/Wood. As with the controller it will be a
test setup, and after i have worked out how it will fit the best
way, i will continue to make a complete design on paper. A tip
from Pepijn, which i might use: make a cabinet in carton/mdf on a
small scale to see if your plans are correct.
Step 5 - For real! [oct/nov '05]
I made a new joystick, and i fitted the monitor
to MDF. I don't like monitor's without a cover (high voltage and
stuff), so i screwed the back again to the MDF. I have enough MDF
for the cabinet now, just not the time to continue.
First setback, I used the IBM monitor and fitted it to MDF. I did
a test, and liked the other monitor better. Replaced the IBM with
the other monitor and ... it was dead. Had to put the IBM back.
I
also bought some speaker grills, which will look pretty cool.
Also bought a second hand labtec speaker set with subwoofer!
Monitor not quite ready. But looking good
already!
Controller in progress for real, without
plexiglass and print on plain paper instead of photo paper.
Plexiglass is not my favourite material!
Change of plan regarding the art on the
controller, will cut it in two, maybe i will photoshop it a
little more, but this way it's more like the orginal.
I have cut the plexiglass for the controller
(ruined one, second was good). In the process I damaged the art
for the controller. Will make a new one, then I can glue the
parts together (picture above is the finished controller). Again
a plexiglass disaster, I put screws in the kickplate, and pressed
too hard! Broken kickplate. I am out of plexiglass, so I have to
get another plate (another 10 euro learning money).
disassembled the Compaq, otherwise it wouldn't
fit in the cabinet. This mess will be the heart of the cabinet:
I decided it works best for me to have
a global plan but work from part to part and keep measuring,
fitting and adjust the plan along the way.
Things are going quite well, I will post some
pictures this weekend ...
The side parts are ready, now i am measuring,
sanding the other parts (all parts are still loose, until they
are all ready). I connect all parts with deuvels/wooden plugs. I
drilled two holes too deep, so I went through a side part (have to
fix that).
If all parts are good, I have to paint the parts,
and then put it together. Result so far:
(Impression of things to come ...)
I tested the hardware before i would glue the
parts together ... Monitor dead !! Argh! I didn't do anything to
it after the last test (i think). I will have to find another one
or get it fixed.
While cursing over my mischiefs, I checked the
first monitor again. I thought the end of the tube was broken
(well it is), but when pressed together it works! Have to find a
way to keep it fixed, but now I can continue!
Monitor is working and in place. I will glue the
parts together. As you can see I haven't painted the sides yet.
On the top you can see I drilled one hole too deep. Have to fix
that before I paint the sides. Also used the slot cutter, but
putting the t-mold in is one of the last steps.
As you can see below, the black paint has a nice
shine and reflects like a mirror.
Speakergrills!
After playing some games, I am back to the
project. I have also been tweaking with XP. With MSConfig I have
turned down most processes. Don't know if it helps the
performance on mame, but now the PC starts quicker.
Step 6 - T-Molding
To make the cabinet look professional it needs
T-Molding. What is T-Molding? A plastic border for the edge of
the MDF. You can buy T-Mold at www.t-molding.com.
For 18mm MDF you need 11/16". The more common 3/4" is
19mm. I had to buy a "Slot Cutter" (see picture) which
is expensive!! (Euro 38). This is a picture how it
is done (not me).
With the right tools it's easy, to adjust it to
be cut in the middle of the mdf it is wise to first use a piece
of mdf to test if the cut is straight in the middle. Do this
OUTSIDE the house! It's a messy job.
Step 7 - Art
What bugs me is that the art for Galaga uses
different color schemes. So the colors don't match (green of the
marquee is different from the sideart and control panel,
kickplate is more purple then the sideart, which is blue, etc.)
I could use a A4 color laser printer from work,
and a friend used his A3 color printer for the bezel. I have a
print of the sideart as well (taped together 3xA4), but I am also checking prices to
make a sticker for the sideart.
On www.localarcade.com/arcade_art/
you can find hi-res pictures. If the download option doens't
appear, make an account and it will.
I got the sideart on glossy sticker paper for
free! A friend had some connections, which helped me a lot.
Step 8 - Playing games
This step can be done through all steps, but then
it's called testing! As you can see the sideart is not attached,
but it's almost finished!
Sideart on the Cab! Kickplate still missing and
the back is still open.
I
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